Boryeong Mudfest

This weekend I went to the Boryeong Mud Festival, or as I have chosen to affectionately call it, the Dirty Foreigner Mud Convention (I mean dirty mostly literally...just a tad bit figuratively). While Koreans do attend, Mudfest is a huge hit with the expat community, it was by far the most English speaking people I've seen in one place since I've been here. What attracts throngs of weary foreigner teachers to this sleepy seaside town? I don't know, must be something in the mud...

It's so popular even Spidey and Batman came out for the occasion! I realize I look clean but that's only because I had to wash off after some random American dude got a little over zealous when he decided to rub his muddy hands on my face. Clearly I accidentally stepped into the line of fire. The before picture:

Some other members of the infamous Yeoju Crew!

If there was a "Creatures of the Deep" look-a-like contest I definitely would have won. Although I got covered, there was a surprising lack of mud slinging (the literal kind). I expected to see giant mosh-pit like trenches filled with a nice dirt, water, and foreigner mixture, but in typical, somewhat organized Korean fashion, there were just cute, brightly colored basins containing mud and brushes so you could gently paint yourself.

Not quite what I had in mind but it got the job done. According to Wikipedia (the source of all that is right and true) the festival began because of a cosmetics company trying to promote their mud products. While I did see such products being sold, I believe the festival has largely been endorsed by the Boryeong government to promote tourism, as this is really the only time people visit the town. Most of the restaurants were painfully unequipped to deal with the crowds. Foreigners be warned: finding breakfast in Boryeong will be a painful, fruitless, and heartbreaking journey.

The muddy sea of foreigners.

I certainly had a good time, but it takes some liquid courage to enjoy the mud and other activities without thinking about the questionably sanitary conditions (never fear, liquid courage is a bountiful commodity at Mudfest). Here's great photo I took from the top of one of the main buildings where you can see all of the bouncy castle type attractions they set up:

That's only a small portion of it, but you get the idea. There was no shortage of greasy street food and cheep beer tents. You can also see the mud slide and obstacle courses (ouch is right). Oh, and the one sad lonely "mud pit" where people were just kind of flailing around:

They also had colored mud body painting and a "Mud Prison"... yes, there are individuals who put themselves in this cage so someone could just throw mud at them...whatever you're into ya know? No judgement.

Those guys on top are the Mudfest mascots. You can see them on fixtures all over the town. It must be a very strange place to be the other 50 weeks of the year (the festival lasts two weeks) when there are virtually no tourists. Case in point, the clouds do not flatter this square filled with weird ice cream themed sculptures like this one:

I knew I had wandered too far searching for breakfast when I found this guy. I don't mean to give Mudfest a bad rap, it was definitely fun, but after 12 hours of muddy debauchery you'll probably find yourself wanting to go home and take a nice nap/ shower. Parts of the beach are nice, but I could see why it's not a Korean hot spot. On the bright side, the mud did make my skin feel nice and soft!

And of course, the cute news never ends. This guy was chillin' outside our hostel:

I need to carry this picture in my pocket . Who could say no to that face? Nope, not me.

Riding a Motorbike in Korea, Red Lights Optional

Riding a motorbike, or moped, in the States is about as cool as driving a ten year-old mini van...oh wait, I already did that....well I guess for the sake of continuity I recently bought a moped to get around Yeoju since my apartment is a bit far from my school/ the downtown.

Gangsta.

In my humble opinion however, riding a moped in Asia is way cooler than doing it in the States because 1) lots of people drive them here 2) I'm in Asia...this sounds really obnoxious (probably cause it is) but seriously, try adding "in Asia" to the end of any first person verb phrase and see how infinitely cooler it sounds..."I hiked a mountain....in Asia", "I went to a water park...in Asia", "I ate a bug...in Asia"...see what I mean?

And the big number 3) unless you're at a major intersection or downtown, traffic laws in rural Korea are OPTIONAL. Red lights? I ran three of those this morning. Now I'm not doing this out of sheer stupidity. Some people do obey traffic lights, signs, etc, so I simply follow what the other cars around me are doing. If it's an empty street and everyone is running the red light then I will run it too...it's better to run the light than get passed by cars and trucks, which is quite scary. Also since I'm technically still a bike (no license or registration required), I'm not sure how much traffic laws apply to me anyway...I mean...I park on the sidewalk.

The first week I had my bike I was pretty much too scared to ride it, a fear which I attribute to my parents (hi mom! hi dad!). However, this isn't because they are overly paranoid, in fact, it's their lax attitude towards most other things that made me think twice about getting a bike. In general, my parents have been surprisingly cool about my many shenanigans (transferring to a college 1500 miles away, an impromptu trip to Bratislava, moving to South Korea...), but I've always heard them talk about how dangerous bikes can be.

I found it extremely uncomfortable at first. The throttle can seem jumpy and making good turns is tricky; you can't be afraid to stick your feet out for balance.  It took me a few tries to stop and go without wobbling all over the place. I also made the mistake of learning on the go in real traffic. Why you ask? I don't know...because I'm in Korea and logic has escaped me a bit. Luckily no one was hurt by my inaugural solo ride through the downtown (though they may have been offended by my dress which was riding up the whole time). 

I got my bike for a good price since I bought mine from another foreign teacher who is moving. If you're moving to Korea and looking to get a bike you can get cheap used ones for as low as 400,000 won (around $375), though usually they run around 500,000 won. If you're buying one in a shop, bring a co-worker or someone one who speaks Korean so you don't get ripped off and/or end up buying a crappy bike.

Even if you don't need one for daily use, it's fun to hop on a country road, open up the throttle (max out at 45 mph) and feel the breeze. Now that I've gotten used to riding it I don't know what I'd do without it...probably a lot of walking or hand gesturing to cab drivers. I started going to a Korean class and so far I can write my name is Korean...which impressed my co-teacher much less than I thought it would. What would impress him about that? I don't know...Korean kindergarteners and I now have something in common?

Anyway here's a blurry photo I snapped while riding my bike (sorry mom...but look no traffic! Plus it's good for practicing balance):

This is the view driving from my school (which I stopped to take a photo of):

Minus the streetlight....the mountains are really beautiful. It's been very cloudy and raining a lot here because of monsoon season, so today was an unusually nice day.

In cute news, I found the pet store where all the Koreans get their tiny dogs from:

The best thing about this picture is that you can see me making my "awww-I-want-it!" face in the mirror. I have to say...this guy is making Gus look bad...

Drinkin- Excuse me, I mean Hiking and Rafting in Korea

This weekend I went hiking and rafting in Yeongwol, Gangwon-do (a neighboring province) with Climbing in Korea, a Meetup group based in Seoul. I'd heard rumors about hiking in Korea, and they all involved beer and women wearing heels, so I figured it wouldn't be too difficult. Of course, I probably should have figured that since this is an expat group with "climbing" in the title, that their version of an "easy" hike would be a bit different from mine. What I imagined would be a nice two hour stroll through the countryside, turned into three hours of this:

I naively took this self-congratulatory photo, wanting to document my conquest of the staircase. Little did I know however the next twenty minute leg of the path would be just as steep...minus the staircase, plus a side rope to dangle on as I huffed and puffed up the mountain. For the most part I am in good hiking shape, but the soju I drank the night before disagreed with my life decisions.

Thankfully a little mind-over-matter attitude, along with my just rip-the-band-aid-off approach to physical activity, helped me to high tail it most of the way up despite the lovely burning sensation in my calves. The views at the top were certainly worth it. I plan to keep doing hikes like this to see more of Korea. Plus the company is better than twiddling my thumbs alone in my apartment on the weekends.

When we reached the top we received an enthusiastic greeting from a group of Korean hikers. Now I should explain here that Koreans are, or at least like to try to be, extremely fashionable. In general, even on the subway, I always feel like there's a fashion show going on that no body told me about. On the subway at 6 AM you'll see girls in skinny jeans and sky high stiletto heels (and I'm pretty sure they're not coming home from a late night at a club, though some might be). Apparently though, you must be fashionable even whilst hiking. No Korean hiker would be ready to go anywhere without head to toe, top of the line, brightly colored synthetic hiking clothes. No old, free college t-shirts and worn out yoga pants here.

Anyway, once at the top we were given a bottle of makkoli, traditional Korean rice wine, by a jolly old man who was apart of the group pictured above.  I smiled at the old man as I drank a small cup of  the too-sweet, luke warm beverage, secretly wishing for bottle of Gatorade to appear. An old woman warned us not to drink too much so we wouldn't go crazy on the way down. It was fun to partake in this tradition with the other group, but I have to say its strange drinking on a mountain top since I've always thought of sipping on beer or wine as a sitting-on-your-front-porch activity. Clearly I've been missing out.

When in Korea, make like this guy and grab your makkoli (that green, soda bottle looking thing).

Here's an unimpeded view of the river. Usually the water is a nice shade of blue-green, but we had some monsoon rain the day before which stirred up the silt, etc. Luckily these rains make for good rafting which came next!

Here's me throwing up a peace sign with the Korean hikers. The nice man next to me let me hold his walking stick so I'd look more legit, but it was still kind of hard to blend in....

In case anyone was wondering, they invited us to take pictures with them, so I didn't have to awkwardly jump in. It might seem insensitive using a hiking group as a tourist attraction for a photo, but I assure you the using was mutual and all in good fun.

Halfway through the hike we walked along the river, but the path was pretty badly flooded. Luckily I seem to have retained my rock hopping skills from childhood. The worst part actually was the hornets nest on the path that led to some pretty bad stings! I was spared from injury but one girl who was stung on her lower leg could barely walk afterwards! Thus my fear of insects intensifies...the giant spider we saw didn't help either.

Once we got to the river though everyone was excited. They made us do some light warm up exercises which was pretty hilarious considering we had just been hiking for over three hours. The river was fast but calm, only one set of rapids nearly sent me tumbling off the raft. The most action we got really was using our paddles to engage in splash fights with other boats. Unfortunately I don't have any pictures since I don't have a water proof camera. If you really must see a rafting picture, I suppose you can Google "rafting in Gangwon-do Korea"

For your continued entertainment I'll end the post with my new favorite re-occuring theme: crazy Asian stuffed animals. I really want to get a dog but I don't want to pay for vet expenses/ I'm really not home that much anyway. So instead I decided to purchase a stuffed animal that made me laugh. I think it already has a name...and might be a her...but I'm going to call him Gus because I think something about that name really captures his expression. Gus, meet world. World, meet Gus:

Not sure why his face is like that...maybe he drank too much Soju, or just doesn't like what you're saying to him right now.


 

Gyeongbokgung Palace

So in general I won't post about every museum/palace/art gallery, etc I see because it would make this blog endless and boring, but it's definitely worth mentioning Gyeongbokgung (just sound it out) Palace in Seoul since it is one of the most famous attractions. However, I'm less interested in writing about its cultural/ historical value, than its aesthetic appeal. I'm not sure how often people recommend this...but I would pay the $2 entrance fee just to sit here every once and a while:

Although there are lots of tourists milling around, the palace grounds are so huge and there is so much to see that it's pretty easy to find a relatively quiet spot to sit, relax, and enjoy the view. To give you an idea of how big this place is (keep in mind that this place is also smack dab in the middle of downtown Seoul) here is map of the complex. This part above, the lake shrine area as I'm going to call it, is just the part that I circled on the map:

Guided tours take about two hours. However, after taking a whirlwind tour of Hongdae the night before I wasn't up for a two hour history lesson, so I read the little guide book which contained the above map instead. What I really learned from this guide book? Why, among many many other reasons, the Koreans have every right to hold a grudge against the Japanese. This palace was first built in 1395, but the original structures are virtually gone because the Japanese completely destroyed it...twice.  Parts of it are still in the process of restoration.

I'm glad they're working on it though. Here's the view from the bench I sat on for about 45 minutes:

If you want to be truly amazed, I'd recommend coming here just to take a walk...I realize the history is important, but sometimes it's nice to actually absorb and truly see your surroundings, rather than listen to a tour guide drone on for two hours and rush from building to building. Instead, try to retain some of the wonder. You can also come here and be amazed at this:

And crane your neck to gawk at ceilings like this:

Unfortunately it's not the greatest picture since I took it with my iPhone and basically had to lie down on the ground to snap the picture (you can't physically walk into many of the buildings, you have to look from outside), but you can get the idea of how elaborate the interiors of these buildings are.

Ta ta for now! Enjoy the view!

Safety in Korea

True to my word, I've actually started going for daily runs along the river in Yeoju. To my surprise  I've found that you can run there after dark without running into unwanted company! The first time I went down there it was near sunset, so I thought I'd have to check it out and leave before the creepers and druggies showed up...but then I remembered I am in rural Korea. In fact, although I rarely see people doing anything alone here, I was joined by lots of girls who appeared to be getting their late evening work out in....though I'll say that they don't go for runs like I do...they all stare as I huff, puff, and wheeze passed them. It kind of feels like running in a smoggy sauna, but I guess I'll get used to it eventually. Also, people in Korea seem to have a lot of fancy work out gear considering that many of them don't appear to do much working out.

By the river at night. Crappy camera, it isn't actually that dark.

Anyway, the point is that I realized in America I think I would be hard pressed to find a riverside trail where single women felt comfortable running and walking alone at night. The path isn't even lit, there is just enough residual light from the street above to help you see where you're going. I think there are a couple of reasons for this. First, Koreans tend to work late and thus do things like getting in a workout much later than people would in the States. In general, shops, stores, restaurants, and other places of business are open much later here than I think they would be in small town America (*cough* St. Louis *cough*).

See? Lovely pedestrian street all light up at night.

Second, crime rates are much lower here. I'm not saying Korea is perfect, it definitely has its problems, but I think the lack of crime can be attributed to Korean culture and values. As my friend and I like to joke about the Chinese, "upholding the family honor" is just as important in Korea. People consider their actions not just a reflection of themselves, but of their families too. This certainly holds one more accountable for one's actions. Third, drugs are extremely taboo, and not in the American "it's illegal and people do it anyway way", but seriously...not that I would really know, but drug culture here appears to be almost non-existent.

When you don't have to worry about drug abuse and crime, a lot of possibilities open up...running along a river at night, wandering around at night in general, lots of public bathrooms, etc. Now I'm not suggesting that America tries to go drug-free Korea style. The war on drugs is already fruitless and costly, and I think it's already way too ingrained into mainstream culture (the glorification of the 60s and what not). However, although Korean society is much more restrictive in many ways, it's interesting to consider the possibilities, should I even say, the freedoms that arise when you don't have to worry so much about crime. It's not just Yeoju. Given its size, Seoul is considered one of the safest cities in the world, with minimal violent crimes and even low rates of theft and pickpocketing (not to say it doesn't happen, I know people in Yeoju who've had their motor bikes stolen).

Here you can see the arches I was talking about.

Especially with the new healthcare legislation being passed in the United States, I've been thinking a lot about Korean vs. American political and social values. What laws, social norms, and traditions really lead to the kinds of freedoms I've experienced here? I've never felt safe walking around at night in the States the way I do here. People may stare or say things, but it's harmless compared to worrying about being mugged or worse. Of course, there is certainly a trade-off; because of the high pressure put on individuals here to represent the achievements of themselves and their families, mental illnesses are seen as weaknesses rather than medical conditions that need to be dealt with seriously. Suicide is a huge unresolved issue here.

But...to end on a lighter note, here's some other funny things I discovered while wandering the streets of Yeoju at night (my new favorite activity). Plus it makes me feel like I'm working out more...

Squid tank in front of a restaurant....see? You can have your squid and eat it too! Okay I admit I really just wanted to make that joke...

I think it's a bar...clearly a business in the front, party in the back kind of place.

COEX Mall: The Questionable Aquarium

I should probably warn all the animal lovers out there that the following post may be a bit disappointing. Unfortunately, I didn't get the feeling that aquariums in Asia are built for conservation as much as they are for spectacle. However, having spent the equivalent of 16,000 won to see it (it's okay, that's only like $15), I feel compelled to post some pictures of the more...let's say peculiar aspects of the Coex aquarium. For those who don't know, I love aquariums; there is something exciting but frightening about them (probably the sharks). I also live for the sea themed episodes of Planet Earth.  #nerdthings

Where the coy fish are kept, obviously. Bridge for tiny figurines only. 

This one really had me speechless...yes there are fish in there. One fish, two fish, red fish, go fish?

Exploring the depths of the deep telephone booth, fish included. 

Yup, that's a goldfish in a fake toilet bowl. I was hoping for a "please don't pee on the fish" sign. I guess it's just happy it's not getting flushed. 

 Yes there are real fish in there! Now with these appliances you can dry your fish and keep it cold.

Might be hard to have sweet dreams with creepy octopus-looking starfish things crawling above your head...but as I said before, Koreans don't value sleep like most people. 

I have nothing clever to say about this Spiderman themed mailbox fish tank...mostly because my wit usually rests on some kind of logic being present. 

Sign above larger fish tanks. My interpretation: Caution! If provoked, fish may turn into an irate Pacman and/or unhinge its jaw for the sole purpose of eating your face.

There were bats...among other non-aquatic life forms at this aquarium. However, these struck me as the most peculiar non sequitur.   

 They had an "Amazon Room"....complete with life sized "natives".

 Alright, nothing really special here, but I just love these guys. Crouching tiger, hidden turtle!

I felt terrible for these guys. Never seen an aquarium with manatees...at least not underground. In fact the more I think about it, the stranger an underground aquarium seems...it's like the wrong "under" environment. 

Not gonna lie...seeing a shark swimming above your head is pretty freaky. 

I don't want to make this picture any bigger than necessary cause it terrifies me, but if anyone needed any more justification for my professed fear of crustaceans...here it is. *cringes*

Let's end on a happier/ cuter note:

Cute little Asian girl playing with the "Love Check Aquarium". In addition to being able to breath underwater, fish in Asia also have psychic powers.

COEX Mall (reviewed by a Jersey girl)

So for part one, we'll just start with all of the silly things that I saw, because in South Korea, there seems to be a never ending rotation of sights that amuse/make me giggle. Most of these were taken at Coex, which is said to be the largest mall in Asia, but I don't know if that's largest mall in general or largest underground mall. It was cool to see but it's pretty poorly laid out, it's like being a lab rat in the world's largest underground maze.

 Sorry store, I think Jesus has more important things to do, like grow a beard.

 There is a Kimchi museum!! It was closed!!! #Ican'tgo-on

 Trying to find a stuffed animal in Korea that will actually comfort rather than frighten a small child seems to be a difficult task. Like it's kind of cute but...what is it? Why is it missing limbs?

The Koreans and the Japanese may not always get along, but everyone can agree on Totoro. Love him!

 According to the signs, this is Jackie Chan's favorite Noodles and Dimsum...that was actually the name of the restaurant..."Jackie Chan's Favorite Noodles and Dimsum"...

 I heard a rumor that Korean couples like to wear matching outfits...turns out that's not a joke.

 Larger than life beer can surrounded by...?

 Uber hipster New Balance window display. Nothing makes me think typewriters, messenger bags, and Ray-Bans like New Balance.

 Just because you have to serve in the South Korean military doesn't mean you can't be stylish while doing it.

Best...bathroom....sign...ever. This is actually from that restaurant Mies Container I talked about in my last post. Forgot to post it before.