When looking to have a classy afternoon of coffee and
shopping, many Seoulites head to Samcheong-dong (삼청동), an
upscale neighbored next to Gyeongbok Palace (경복겅). Filled
with boutique clothing stores, independent coffee shops, marvelous little
restaurants, and timeless traditional Korean architecture, Samcheong-dong is a
great place for a weekend stroll (Anguk Station, exit 3). However, it’s an
extremely popular area. On any given weekend afternoon it will be overrun by
crowds looking to shop, or tourists hunting for a meal after a walk around the
palace.
If you’re looking an equally charming area without the
crowds, try heading over to Buam-dong (부암동). Not as
developed as Samcheong-dong, Buam-dong is a small neighborhood with a lot of
character and a quaint atmosphere not often found in Seoul. It’s located between
Inwangsan and Bukhansan, two mountains, offering great views at every turn. It’s
also known for an eclectic mix of hidden galleries, classic restaurants, and
superb coffee shops, including the famous Sanmootonge
(산모퉁이), which is arguably the most beautiful café in
Seoul. Buam-dong receives a lot less crowds since you cannot get there directly
by subway, but here are simple bus directions!
- 1. Go to
Gyeongbokgung Station (line 3), get out at exit 3.
- 2. Go
straight about 100 meters to the second bus stop, take green buses #1020 or
#7022 and get off at the Buam-dong Community Service Center 부암동민주센터.
It’s only 6 stops away and it will be announced in English.
Places to
go:
To get to the first four places on my list, go to your
right when you get off the bus and walk straight up the hill for 2 minutes or
so until you hit Espresso Club (pictured
below on the left). Known for serving up some of the best cups of coffee in
Seoul, Espresso Club is also at the base of the road that takes you to most of major
destinations on Buam-dong.
Espresso Club is the brick building on the left. You
can stop in there for a taste of some of the best coffee from around the world!
If you want great views and coffee however, head up to Sanmootonge.
Sanmootonge (산모퉁이)
1. According
to the internet, this coffee shop was made famous by its appearance on the
Korean drama Coffee Prince. However,
even if you are like me and have never seen a Korean drama (it’s true), you’ll
still be impressed. Located in a lovely brick house with magnificent views of
Seoul and what I’ve deemed the Korean “Hollywood Hills”, Sanmootonge has just
the right amounts of style, class, and quirk.
The coffee is a bit pricey
at 8,000 won but it’s good quality, and of course you are really paying for the
seat. Try to go early (before 1 pm) so you don’t have to fight K-drama fan
girls or couples taking selfies for a seat on one of the balconies or in front
of a window! The gallery downstairs is also worth checking out.
Directions: Once you
hit Espresso Club, turn left and you’ll see a fork in the road. Stay left and
keep walking; soon you’ll hit a small bend where you’ll see a white building
with a large brown sign for Santoomonge, pointing you uphill. It’s about 10-15
minute walk uphill, but there are great views and architecture along the way.
Additional signs along the hill will keep you on track!
Jaha Sonmandu (자하손만두)
This is a famous mandu (만두) or dumpling restaurant. Known for its
fantastic tteok mandu guk (떡만두국), or rice cake and dumpling soup, this restaurant also has
a beautiful minimalist interior, perfect for dates, birthdays, treating
yourself, and other special occasions. While certainly pricier than every day
street mandu, regular dishes only
cost about 6,000 to 15,000 won; 12,000 won for the tteok mandu guk. As a huge mandu
fan, I think it’s well worth the visit!
Directions: It’s just a little up the street from Espresso Club. Turn left at Espresso Club, then stay
right at the fork, going a little up hill. You will see Jaha Sonmandu almost immediately on your right.
Gyeyolsa Chicken, 계열사 치킨 (formerly “Cheers Chicken”)
Gyeyolsa is one of the most famous chicken restaurants in Seoul
and is known for its traditional Korean fried chicken. Traditional Korean fried
chicken is distinguished by a very thin crisp shell. The chicken is served on
platters with large home fries. There is no English menu, but it’s just the
first item on the menu, 후라이드 (which is Hangeul for “fried”). If you’re feeling
more adventurous, another popular dish you’ll see many people ordering is the
second item on the menu, 골뱅이 국수or snails with noodles! Get
here by noon if you want to avoid the lunch rush!
Directions: It’s also just a little
bit up the street from Espresso Club. Stay to the left at the fork. It’s
located down on the lowered sidewalk to your left.
Changuimun
Gate and Seoul Fortress
if after all that eating you’re in need of
some exercise, make a right behind Espresso Club and walk straight for just a
minute and you will come to the Changumin
Gate (the oldest of the fortress gates) Through the gate you’ll find one of the
entrances for the Seoul Fortress which you can hike (yes that large fortress
you can see from Sanmootonge).
Ivy and Shortcake
If you
want to explore another part of the Buam-dong area, make a right at the base of
Buam-dong (when you are facing these shops). A few minutes down are some other
neighborhood favorites.
One of the first places you’ll see walking down the
street is Ivy, a small yellow café
with only 3 seats. Apparently it can be rented out
at night to small groups for 50,000 won. After Ivy you’ll see Shortcake, which is a popular cupcake
shop. While probably more sought out for its cute décor than the cupcakes (I
agree with the assessments I’ve read that the cakes are a little dry) Shortcake
is still pretty good! In a city with a lack of cupcakes, I don’t get too
choosey! The frosting on my Oreo cupcake was quite good.
|
Left- Ivy, Right- Shortcake interior and Oreo cupcake! |
Keep walking past Shortcake and you’ll come to a rotary intersection. You have to cross the street to get down to the pedestrian
intersection. If you go to the right you can get great views of the mountains
and visit some other interesting shops. I
didn’t get a chance to go left, but it looked like there were a few interesting
things there as well. Really you could spend an afternoon exploring, which I
would encourage you to do if you have the time.
August
With limited time, my friend and I decided just to
check out nearby August (to the right of the rotary), which is an
interesting vintage shop filled with clothes, house ware, and other
knick-knacks. The owner was very friendly; she used to live in L.A. and speaks
English very well!
Pro tips
for Buam-dong (and in general):
- Wander
down small streets, take long walks, and let yourself get lost. The
neighborhoods surrounding Gyeongbok Palace, particularly Samcheong-dong and Buam-dong,
are filled with hidden coffee shops and galleries. There are tons of great
places and little treasures to discover.
- Taxis are
cheaper than you’d think. If you start the day checking out Gyeongbok
Palace or Samcheong-dong, which I would recommend, a taxi to Buam-dong from
there will only cost about 6,000 won. In general, travel between major
destinations in central Seoul isn’t too pricey, especially if you are splitting
it with friends. Even going all the way from Hongdae to Gangnam is only about
15,000-20,000 won depending on where you are.
- Coffee
shops are empty before noon. For most Koreans, coffee shops
aren’t for morning pick-me-ups, but places to be seen in the afternoon. If you
want to avoid crowded coffee shops in Samcheong-dong or Buam-dong, you don’t
have to get there too early. Coffee shops start to get really crowded around 3
or 4 o’clock.